The Bernina Express is not merely a train ride; it is a moving masterpiece of engineering that crosses the Swiss Alps at their most spectacular point. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage route, this iconic railway traverses $196$ bridges, tunnels through $55$ mountains, and climbs to the highest railway point in the Alps, all while connecting the cold, glaciated heart of Switzerland with the Mediterranean warmth of Italy.
For travelers seeking a once-in-a-lifetime journey that seamlessly blends natural wonder with human ingenuity, the Bernina Express is the ultimate choice.
Defining the Alpine Route
The Bernina Express operates on the Rhaetian Railway line, famous for its red coaches and dramatic mountain crossings. The full scenic journey can begin in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, but the most dramatic portion starts in the high-Alpine town of St. Moritz.
- Starting Points: Chur or St. Moritz (Switzerland).
- Ending Point: Tirano (Italy).
- Duration: The core scenic ride (St. Moritz to Tirano) takes approximately four hours, while the journey from Chur takes about seven and a half hours.
The route is unique because it manages radical elevation changes without the use of cogwheels (rack-and-pinion). Instead, it relies on steep gradients and sophisticated spirals, allowing the train to gracefully climb from Chur ($584$ meters) up to the glaciers at the highest pass ($2,253$ meters) before descending into Tirano ($429$ meters).
The Engineering Marvels
The true genius of the Bernina Express lies in how it navigates the formidable Alpine landscape. Two structures are the undisputed stars of the show:
- The Landwasser Viaduct: Located early in the journey (near Thusis/Filisur), this iconic limestone structure is perhaps the most photographed train bridge in the world. It features a spectacular curved path over six arches, leading the train directly into the darkness of a sheer tunnel wall. Have your camera ready, as the entire train curves sharply for a perfect view of the bridge itself.
- The Brusio Spiral Viaduct: As the train descends rapidly toward the Italian border near Tirano, the line must lose altitude over a very short distance. To achieve this, engineers built the Brusio Spiral, a remarkable $360$-degree helical viaduct that twists the train in a complete circle, allowing it to drop without resorting to dangerous hairpin bends.
- Ospizio Bernina: The route’s high point is at this desolate, wind-swept pass, $2,253$ meters above sea level. Here, the track runs alongside Lago Bianco, a reservoir flanked by mountains and glaciated peaks, offering pure, high-Alpine scenery.
The Passenger Experience and Planning
The Bernina Express is equipped specifically for scenic travel, but a little pre-planning ensures the best experience.
Booking and Tickets: The Bernina Express is not a public transport commuter train; it is a premium, specialized service. While the journey uses the same tracks as the regional trains, the Express requires two components:
- The Ticket: The standard fare is covered if you hold a Swiss Travel Pass or a Eurail Pass.
- The Seat Reservation: This is mandatory for the panoramic Express coaches and is a separate fee. Book this reservation well in advance, especially during the summer.
The Panoramic Windows: The signature feature of the Express is the massive, floor-to-ceiling domed windows, which maximize the visual experience. However, these windows do not open, which can pose a challenge for photography (glare/reflection).
Seating Strategy: For the best views of the iconic Landwasser Viaduct, sit on the right side of the train when traveling south from Chur to Tirano. For the final descent and the Brusio Viaduct, the views are best from the right side as well. However, the scenery alternates rapidly, and every seat offers breathtaking moments.
From Alpine Glaciers to Italian Palms
One of the most memorable aspects of the journey is the climatic transition. You begin amidst the sharp, crystalline peaks and turquoise mountain lakes of the Swiss Engadin Valley. Within the span of a few hours, the landscape softens. After you cross into the Italian-speaking Val Poschiavo, the snow and ice give way to chestnut groves, vineyards, and eventually, the palm trees and Mediterranean flair of Tirano.
This rapid, dramatic shift in climate and culture highlights the genius of the railway, which acts as a gentle bridge between the northern and southern edges of the Alps.
